Vulpes Mundi's Quick Photoshop tutorial, v.1.0

(c)1999 Vulpes Mundi, Fox of the World




--Updated December 16, 1999--


First, it must be noted that I draw my images by hand in pencil.  Then I scan it (in grayscale), clean it up and lighten the linework.  To do this I use the function Image > Adjust > Replace Color.  You need White as the foreground (active) color to use this properly (in this scenario).

Next I print the cleaned image on normal printer paper (8.5 x 11 or 8.5 x 14, depending on the size).  I then ink over the linework with a black pen.  Once done I scan the inked version of the image (in black & white and at 3 times its original size) and clean up any discrepancies.

Next I convert the color format to grayscale, then to RGB color.  Now we're ready to begin coloring.

First I take the base color for all the different areas of the image and fill them in.  This sets the groundwork for everything.

--Begin repetitive actions--

Now it gets a little trickier.  First I duplicate the image (background layer) using the layer options (best to activate the Layer Window so one can see what they're doing here).  Then I make a new layer (referred to as the working layer) inbetween the original and its duplicate.  That's the layer where all the work is going to be done.  To work on that layer, I select a region (an arm, for example) on the duplicate layer with the magic wand and then delete it (using the delete button).  Now using the selection lasso, I surround that area with a good half an inch leeway (for shading discrepancies) and then activate the working layer.  Next I fill the lassoed area on the working layer with it's original base color.  Keep that area lassoed until done working on it.

At this point I tend to open the Options window so I can adjust tools on the fly.

Now I select the burn tool (looks like a hand with pinched fingers).  The burn tool progressively applies shadows to where ever you use it.  The more you use it in one area, the darker the shading.  I tend to keep its option settings on Midtones with an Exposure of 50%, but some colors don't shade well on those settings (especially darker colors), so you may have to experiment.

After I've applied shading I'll select the dodge tool (looks like a lolly-pop).  The dodge tool progressively applies highlights to where ever you use it.  The more you use it in one area, the brighter the highlights.  I tend to keep its option settings on Highlights with an Exposure of 50%, but some colors don't highlight well on those settings (especially pure colors like red, blue, or white), so you may have to experiment.

The gyst of the shading (shadows and highlights) comes with a lot of study about light sourcing and the coin theory.  It's a lot more difficult for someone to understand what they're doing without knowledge of these art concepts.

Once done with the shading I use the function Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur... to mold the shading together more soundly.  With this, depending upon appearances, I use a setting between a 15 and 30 radius.  Typically, though, I use a 28 radius for major/large areas and a 20 radius for minor/small areas.  Thankfully there's a preview function so you can get an idea of what it looks like before you go all the way.

After that's done, the area is now complete.  Deselect the lasso and flatten the image layers.  Now I'm ready to move on to another region of the image.  Begin again with the layers.

--End repetitive actions--

That's the gyst of it.  I just keep going with each section until the image comes out looking the way I want it to.  Phew.

Once complete and ready for posting on the internet, I resize the image and change the file format.  First, I resize the image to 33.33% of the current size (which will reduce it from three times normal size down to normal size).  I do this by changing the print resolution to 100.  Since the image is color-saturated, I use the .jpg format for internet viewing.  Depending on the detail of the shading used, I recommend a 6, 7, or 8 setting on the .jpg quality scale.  Low detail will look fine on a setting of 6, but high detail will not look well unless given a setting of 8.  I never recommend a setting of above 8 or below 6.  Above 8 doesn't compress the file enough and causes the image to be hefty in storage space, and below six barely compresses any extra though it greatly damages the quality of the image.  After that, the image is ready for posting.

~fin


-Vulpes Mundi
December 14-16, 1999